Chasing the Light
As published in Eye Magazine’s Collector’s edition 2019:
Eye Magazine Chasing the Light Page 1
Eye Magazine Chasing the Light Page 2
Eye Magazine Chasing the Light Page 3.
Read my full account with more images below…
“KIRSTIN O’BRIEN OF TORY & KO. JEWELLERS JET-SETS AROUND UK AND EUROPE SEEKING INSPIRATION FROM ARCHITECTURE & ART AND FINDS SPARKLE AND LIGHT IN SOME BEAUTIFUL LOCATIONS…”
Vincent Van Gogh once said: “I dream of painting and then I paint my dream.”
For this writer, dreams come in sparkling packages: being a lover of jewellery, art and architecture there is inspiration everywhere.
A dream trip to the UK & Europe presented the opportunity to visit art galleries, magnificent buildings and see some sparkling masterpieces. My focus was not only to visit the famous cities of London, Paris, Turin, Venice and Barcelona but to also capture the light in each destination.
LONDON CALLING
Our first stop was London and although it was officially autumn we were fortunate to experience the last of the British sunshine. A trip to the Natural History Museum’s Mineral collection was top on the list. The incredible collection of gemstones in their natural rock formation, along with faceted versions of every species was a glittering way to start off this holiday. Replicas of the largest diamonds in the world (Cullinan, Koh-i-Noor and the Hope Diamond) were showcased alongside the rough from which they were cut showing the size of the natural diamond material before it was cut into the beautiful pieces we know today.
For this writer, dreams come in sparkling packages: being a lover of jewellery, art and architecture there is inspiration everywhere.
Diamonds at the Natural History Museum in London
Brooch designed and made by TORY & KO. Jewellers being gifted to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II by Sir Jerry Mateparae.
The day we visited Her Majesty The Queen was gorgeous: sunshine lit up the golden gates of Buckingham Palace. Unfortunately, Her Majesty was out for the day. I was vainly hoping to catch a glimpse of her wearing the Brooch (featuring diamonds and Pounamu set in rose gold) which she was gifted on her 90th Birthday. This brooch was commissioned by our former Governor-General Sir Jerry Mateparae and Lady Janine Mataparae and was created by my talented business partner, Victoria Taylor, of TORY & KO. Jewellers. Quite a highlight in our jewellery careers! It was very special visiting the palace where the brooch was now residing.
Not to be disappointed, I decided to catch an official glimpse of the Crown Jewels. What a spectacular, if somewhat surreal, experience. Travelling along a conveyor-belt you are smoothly moved past each of the pieces. No stopping to look closely for this jewellery lover! I managed to take a repeat round-trip 3 times before my family started to get impatient (and myself a little motion-sick). The highlight was seeing the Culinan II diamond set in all its 530.2 carat glory in the Sovereign’s Sceptre. Spectacular!
Olafur Eliasson exhibition at Tate Modern, London
A visit to the Tate Modern’s Olafur Eliasson exhibition was illuminating in more ways than one. The Danish-Icelandic artist works with elements of nature and extrapolates light, water and air to create beautiful installations. Rainbow reflections in soft waterfalls, mirrored, faceted tunnels and interactive multi-coloured shadow play were highlights. We left this exhibition feeling uplifted and engaged and then celebrated over a special tasting menu designed by the artist’s studio and served up at the Tate Modern’s top floor Restaurant. Sipping Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé with our delicious meal we followed up with a refreshing gin from the Tate’s extensive gin selection and enjoyed the changing weather and views over the Thames to St Paul’s Cathedral, feeling we were truly in London.
Olafur Eliasson Sound/Light captured by Michael O’Brien
Catherine Opie Exhibition Tate Modern, London
After lunch we chanced upon a wonderful small photographic exhibition by Catherine Opie of Elizabeth’s Taylor’s jewellery in her Hollywood home.
The photographs were out of focus and yet showed the beauty of her spectacular jewels. This was an unexpected treat and one which added to my search for sparkle and light!
THE CITY OF LIGHTS: PARIS
Next stop: the City of Light, Paris. There’s something remarkable about this city - and it’s not just the obvious beauty of the city’s architecture. There is a luxury and relaxed grandness about everything: from the tailored, nonchalant waiters at Café de Flores to the sense of style exuded by the Parisiens themselves.
Paris had everything to offer on this tour of light-fulfilling experiences. Details in architectural design: the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower; multi-coloured glass windows in churches; gilt decorations in theatres and stunning chandeliers in palaces added to the beauty and wonder of this marvellous city.
We visited La Sainte-Chapelle with its glorious, soaring stained-glass windows and had the added highlight of attending a concert of Vivaldi, Haendel and Pachelbel that evening - where the church is illuminated only by its low-hanging chandeliers - casting a different light from the multi-coloured windows from which the daylight sun reflects a rainbow of colour. The rich colours of the stained glass windows reminded me of gemstones shining in the light.
Sainte-Chapelle
Paris turned on the good weather for us with the sunshine coming out and accentuating the gilded ornamentations on the Pont Alexandre III and the golden leaves along the Champs-Elysées.
We spent one day being flâneurs (wanderers): strolling through the grounds of the Louvre; taking in I.M. Pei’s glass pyramids which are reflected in their water pools; marvelling at the “voie triumphal” (standing on the plinth of the Louis XIV statue you take in the view from the Louvre through a triumphal arch all the way up to the Arc de Triomphe). We then meandered from the Louvre through the Tuillieries Gardens and Place de la Concord, along the Champs Elysées with the sun shining.
A trip up to the top of the Arc de Triomphe was rewarded with magnificent views along all axis of the twelve avenues emanating from this triumphant arch. From this vantage point you can see all the way back to the Louvre, out across to Sacré-Coeur in Montmarte, the Eiffel Tower dwarfing the sea of Baron Haussmann rooftops. Turning to look in the opposite direction from the Louvre, you see the financial part of the city with La Defence mimicking the ancient arches.
{Thank you André le Nôtre for your design inspiration and bringing such a remarkable vision to life.}
Pont Neuf proposal spot revisited
There was so much to see and do in Paris and the week flew by… a late evening visit to the exact spot where we got engaged 15 years ago was a lovely trip down memory lane - especially as the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower started their bright little dance against the dark sky - reflecting into the Seine and reminding us of our last time in this beautiful city. The light was still shining in our eyes (and hearts) this time around…
There were many sparkling moments: shopping at Guerlain for a signature fragrance, a trip down the Seine in the sunshine to see La Tour Eiffel, a day trip to Versailles to see the Hall of Mirrors, wandering up through Le Pigalle to Montmarte and seeing the light reflect off the beautiful domes of Sacré-Coeur.
Panthéon interior light - spectacular!
A visit to the vaulted domed Panthéon not only shone some light on French history from monarchy to the Republic but the crypt - which houses figures of France’s elite: playwrights, artists and visionaries such as Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Louis Braille, Emile Zola, Alexandre Dumas, Rousseau and the Architect of the Panthéon, Soufflot - was nothing but illuminating. What an honour to be in the presence of such great thinkers, artists and history makers.
Of course there was shopping in the glittering boutique of Galleries Lafayette, wandering past the grand jewellery houses (window shopping only) and enjoying a post-shopping aperitif of champagne and delicious cheese.
Standing on top of the Galleries Lafayette watching the sun set across Paris after a rain storm was another sparkling moment to remember.
The absolute highlight for me was attending a performance of the Paris Opéra Ballet at the Palais Garnier.
The Golden Room inside this building gave Versailles’ opulence a run for its money. Garlands of golden pearls wrapped their way around flora inspired columns and golden chandeliers hung low down the length of the 154 meter long room. So much inspiration for golden jewellery designs to be found here!
Admiring the Golden Room at the Palais Garnier
Marc Chagall Ceiling at Palais Garnier
In fact, the whole experience from the velvet seats in the spectacular theatre, the gorgeous ceiling painted by Marc Chagall lit up by its magnificent chandelier, to the dancers themselves was a dream come true.
Click here to read my review of the Paris Opéra Ballet and night at the Palais Garnier.
TIME OUT IN TORINO
Bicerin Chocolate Coffee Delight
We left the City of Light and headed to Turin - Italy’s capital of chocolate. Amongst my love of sparkles hides a not-so-hidden love of all things chocolate. I was not to be disappointed by the chocolate gelato, chocolate filled pastries and Torino’s speciality: Bicerin - a rich coffee/chocolate concoction with fresh and softly whipped cold cream on the top. We went to the source: Caffè Al Bicerin (founded in 1763) and sat al fresco on a little table to enjoy our large glasses of heaven. My head was officially blown (as was my wallet - these drinks are charged at tourist prices). But this girl has no regrets when it comes to chocolate!
Turin’s Mole Antonelliana
Turin’s golden light was reflected off the buildings of a piazza while we ate pizza cooked in a gold tiled pizza oven. A visit to see the Mole Antonelliana with its domed spire in the sunlight was quite a sight. The people (population just over 850,000) are jovial and warm and just so Italian. In between visiting all the historic buildings, walking along the lazy, tree lined river Po and enjoying the shade of the collonades surrounding the Piazza Reale, we lapped up the sunshine and continued the Barolo drinking and cheese eating, catching our breath in this historic town. Sparkling fountains, languid jazz saxophonists playing in acoustic corners of grand squares and lots of Neo-Classical, Rococco and Baroque architecture along with ancient Roman ruins - this unsung city brought light and joy to our travels and added centimetres to our waistlines. We then caught a train to a place which is remarkable on so many levels: Venice.
VENICE REFLECTIONS
St. Mark’s Square, Venice
From a design perspective Venice is extraordinary. The Grand Canal running in an S bend through the maze of tiny canals and narrow streets takes you to the ultimate destination - St. Marco Square. The Basilica San Marco with its glittering mosaic façade and Byzantine decoration blinds you with its grand scale and detailed design. Light bounces off the neighbouring and impressive Doges Palace - glorious in pink and cream stone - and the sky and the sea to the left create a feeling of spaciousness around such monumental buildings.
Venice Canal with deep green water and pretty coloured façades
Delving deeper into the narrow streets and canals is like stepping down a rabbit hole. All the pretty faded façades of buildings with their deep green water bases change colour depending on the time of day. One minute you are in a dark little street, the next you have popped out to a bridge and find yourself in remarkable light.
Venice light: Morganite, Golden Beryl and Ametrine gemstone colours: purples, soft golds, peaches and pinks
Here the light changes constantly. One minute the sky is clear, bright blue, the next it is purple fading into pink. Then golden yellows and apricots the next day. Once again, gemstones like Morganite, Golden Beryl and Ametrine were conjured up in my mind’s eye. They seem slightly mysterious like Venice itself.
Venice sunset
In an attempt to escape the crowds we visited an amazing Venice Biennale Exhibition at Galleria Franchetti all Ca’ d’Oro (aptly named the Golden Palace). This was a remarkable juxtaposition of modern artists having their say about light, the environment and sustainability alongside the historical art pieces which are housed in this Villa. Our favourite installation was the beautiful glass “bubbles” by the Dutch Verhoeven Twins entitled “Moments of Happiness” - reflecting the light from the canal and the Gothic details of the venue.
“Moments of Happiness” by Verhoeven Twins, Venice Biennale Ca’a D’Oro, Venice
Palazzo Ducale, Venice
In search of more light we visited the Doges Palace (Palazzo Ducale) with its incredible gilt ceilings, ornate frescoes, artworks and golden arched staircase. So much splendour!
The Art in this city is extraordinary too. From the Venetian artists’ works housed in the Accademia Galleries to the contemporary surrealists and cubists seen in the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, there is something for every art-lover in this reflective place.
Charming masks, not so charming glasswork (not every shop sells delicate Murano pieces!) and a plethora of retail art galleries add spice and true Venetian flavour to every turn.
{If you love writing, paper and calligraphy you can stop by Legatoria Artigiana and buy a feather quill, ink pot and hand made paper bound agenda. Sig. Pitacco himself served us and was quite a charmer! }
Lion of Saint Mark, Campo Manin, Venice
Column of San Marco (left) in Piazza San Marco, Venice
I also fell in love with the symbol of Venice: the winged Lion. I found him posing in Campo Manin and then discovered him following me throughout this mysterious city. He would be frescoed in stone set into building facades quietly reading, standing guard under statues, posing in art with Saints or standing proudly atop one of the columns at St Marco Square.
I later asked a Venetian gallery owner about him and she told me that he is the symbol of Saint Mark - the patron Saint of Venice. If he is holding a sword then Venice was under attack but if he was reading then Venice was in peace. Luckily he seemed like the bookish type while we were there. I brought home my own golden Lion (with book) to stand guard over my pile of reading material at home.
We left Venice early morning under the stars but were rewarded with a glow of sunrise on the horizon as we approached the airport by water taxi. Venice farewelled us with her glorious light and we were off to Barcelona for a taste of Spanish dazzle.
BREATHTAKING BARCELONA
We were not disappointed. Sun, tapas, Plaças, food markets, wine bars, Picasso and architectural genius in every Gaudi design we visited. Gaudi was a visionary with his use of nature, colour, natural light and colourful mosaics.
La Pedrera - Casa Milà interior courtyard, by Gaudi, Barcelona
Gaudi’s Casa Milà was an ode to nature with watercolour interiors, internal courtyards with undulating curves and floral-inspired wrought iron balustrades. Visiting at night we were treated to a visual feast: all the interior paint colours were illuminated from below showing a sea of soft pastels and the textures and forms which Gaudi envisioned.
The rooftop light show was beautiful as it cascaded across the guardian statues and we looked out across Barcelona city with its leafy Avenue Diagonal below.
La Sagrada Familia interior
Our pilgrimage to Barcelona was primarily to revisit La Sagrada Familia - Gaudi’s masterpiece of art and a lifetime homage to his religious devotion. An early start was rewarded with a slightly less crowded entrance. I was moved to tears twice during my visit: the sense of wonderment, welcome and joy of nature fills the interior along with prisms of light in every colour as the sunlight streams through the glass windows and reflects through the tree columns and floral, organic archways. A person of any religion could enter this space and feel its magnanimous power. It enlightens the soul and is a place for everyone, regardless of faith. And it is just so breathtakingly beautiful.
La Sagrada Familia interior detail: stained glass in the morning light
The perfect finale to a dream travel experience. My journey to some of Europe’s most romantic places was filled with many sparkling moments: royal jewels, beautiful stained glass in churches, changing skies, opulent palaces, magnificent chandeliers, golden rooms and the sunshine sparkling through glasses of champagne.
LOVE and LIGHT: La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
