Beijing: My Pearl of the Orient
“The dust and smog surrounding the outskirts of Beijing were a veil between the old and new… “
Visiting China for the first time was an incredible journey of discovery: ancient history, cultural practices and the modern new world technology colliding. An unexpected revelation for this traveller…
ARRIVING IN BEIJING
The moment we stepped off the plane we felt the juxtaposition of old and new. Traditional Chinese art and emblems jostled alongside modern art and technology. The express train to the main terminal was fluid and ordered with a soothing recorded voice translating the clipped Mandarin into English.
We then navigated the hustle and bustle and heat - which our friendly driver guided us through to the car - to break free of the airport and onto the expressway.
The dust and smog surrounding the outskirts of Beijing were a veil between the old and new: signs of modernisation in large bridges being built with cranes and workmen contrasting with the houtong towns which our driver wove through: full of dust and piles of bricks outside each open-doored small dwelling. Modernisation in motion!
We went straight to The Great Wall.
THE GREAT WALL
One of the oldest, and certainly the largest, wonders of the world. We had been in China for less than 2 hours and there we were standing at the entrance.
Made it to the top of the hill - now for the Gondola ride!
The walk up and Gondola ride were exciting enough - especially after the long flight - but once we actually stepped up onto the wall itself I had to pinch myself. As far as the eye could see in either direction the wall snaked itself up and over the ridge of the mountain.
View across part of The Great Wall, Beijing, China
Snake performing a snake ballet in a little peephole window on the Great Wall
Speaking of snakes: look closely at the picture…this little guy did the perfect ballet for me while I watched and everyone else scattered! (It may have been the jet-lag that made me so fearless.)
We walked up and along the wall - at some parts it was steep - with garrisons stationed at points along the way. These were dark and cool and had smaller rooms within. In the 38c degrees climate they were a welcome relief but I couldn’t help imagining what it would have felt like being a soldier stationed there in the winter.
If this was all I got to see on this trip the 14 hour flight would have been worth it.
Gorgeous view out across part of the The Great Wall of China
Obligatory selfie on The Wall
Meandering back down the hill we passed a chronical of the region’s history on the walls which was fascinating and then found our sense of wonderment shattered by the cheap tourist stalls selling everything from a hand-painted name written in Chinese to stuffed toy Pandas wearing baseball caps. It was easy to resist, despite the entreaties of the stall owners and the jet-lag, as our driver’s air-conditioned car was waiting. We collapsed into the cool seats and enjoyed the ride to our hotel.
BEIJING CITY LIGHTS
Giant Screen Ceiling in outdoor Mall, Beijing central
On our first night we headed out with our friends (ex-pats from NZ) for some traditional Chinese cuisine and I had a complete culture shock before we got to our restaurant. Mr M took me to see one of the largest outdoor movie screen ceilings in a public space - this giant screen was meters long and played crazy animations of industrial machines which morphed into space fighters then re-morphed into bubble gum patterns. Sounds were streaming from above while families and little children entertained themselves on brightly lit moving cars and rotating armchairs.
This scene was more “illuminating” than “enlightening” and I found myself in awe of the new technology on show after walking on 14th Century history of The Great Wall earlier that day…
CHINESE DINING HIGHLIGHT
Slipping back into a more “cultural” experience our friends took us to a wonderful outdoor restaurant called Yihe Elegant Restaurant which was nestled in a large building with an open courtyard in the centre. I ate like an elegant Empress that evening. ‘Dumpling overload’ was a new phrase we coined after that fantastic meal.
Kung Pao Chicken
Yihe Elegant Restaurant by Ri Tan Park
Interior Courtyard - Dining inside an old residential building
Dumpling overload
RI TAN PARK EXPLORING
Ri Tan Park exploring
On the days I was alone I wandered through Ri Tan Park gardens and watched Chinese water painting, Fan dancers and Tai Chi practice alongside K-pop style group dancers, an Elvis/harmonica performer and toddlers with their families enjoying the beautiful space.
There were gorgeous lakes and lake houses painted in bright colours, with a small group of people playing some traditional instruments.
Lake Pavilion at Ri Tan Park
Colourful garden paths
Crane and Frog Sculpture
I walked up to a pretty pagoda at the top of the park and rested.
Pagoda with views over the City
Pagoda ceiling detail
Ri Tan Park ticked the cultural experience box and I was keen to see more!
EXPLORING MORE OF BEIJING
Mr M was there on official Architecture business so I was left to my own devices for 5 days - although I was lucky to be introduced to a fabulous ex-pat Kiwi who had been living and working in Beijing for 5 years. Leanne was really kind and took me to see the incredible Temple of Heaven and surrounding gardens which was an incredible day out. Fortunately, the week I was in Beijing the pollution levels were low as there was an international delegation in Beijing = happy lungs clear photos and beautiful skies!
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN
Temple of Heaven
Stairway to the Temple of Heaven
Leanne also took me to the Pearl Markets (floors of pearls, gems and clothing) and introduced me to Xiaolongbao (Chinese soup dumplings) to which I will be forever grateful. We tested our new ‘dumpling overload’ mantra to the limits again!
Dumpling overload!
COSMOPOLITAN CULTURE
Parkview Green was next on the itinerary. I was after some cosmopolitan culture.
This is not a park but a smorgasbord of art and shopping and I did find myself going back twice to take it all in.
I even found two of my favourite things: Stella McCartney Boutique alongside a Salvador Dali Sculpture. My shopping and art desires have never been so aligned…
Two of my favourite things: Stella McCartney and Salvador Dali!
Bronze Salvador Dali sculptures nestle alongside designer fashion, Din Tai Fung restaurants, and contemporary modern art at every turn. This place is incredible!
Salvador and Me just hanging out. I loved Dali’s ‘Dragon, Swan, Elephant’ Scultpure
Interactive Installation and ‘i’
Chocolate Dumpling at Din Tai Fung!
THE FORBIDDEN CITY
My final destination was to visit The Forbidden City which was a day’s excursion into the unknown for this kiwi girl.
After waiting for nearly two hours in the 38 degree heat to get my tourist visa stamped I then queued along with what seemed like 1,500 Chinese Nationals who were also visiting Beijing’s famous tourist spot to gain entrance into the Forbidden City. Passports, travel documents checked and ticket presented I then made my way through security.
The wait was worth it. I spent the full day there walking through each Temple and realm, reading all the information that I could find. I didn’t want to miss anything - especially when there were over 90 palaces within the City to see!
Being by myself gave me the luxury of taking time at each information board to soak up the history.
One important tip: make sure you have a ride planned for your exit through the Gate of Divine Prowess situated at the North end of the City. I was unable to find a ride (apart from the multitudes of rickshaw drivers touting for me to jump on (not ideal in high density traffic) so I then had to re-walk the entire length of the Forbidden City along the outer wall back to the Meridian Gate entrance at Tiananmen Square. I certainly delved deep for my Divine Prowess to get me there! My one bottle of water and a croissant from breakfast wasn’t sufficient for the 2,000 km walk.
Starvation and dehydration aside, I am so pleased I went - this was a memory of a lifetime.
Forbidden City - made it to the end!
